Building Your Beauty Kit – Day 8 Makeup

How to Choose and Use Concealers

When it comes to buying the right concealer, a lot of people get nervous. Some don’t know how to find their shade or even where exactly to apply it on the face. Others think they have it figured out, and then end up looking like a reversed raccoon, with white rings around the eyes.

But that doesn’t have to happen. Once you know the professional tricks for choosing a shade that’s right and putting it on correctly, concealer will become your best friend. It can brighten a tired face, cover a blemish, bring attention to a focal point, and camouflage under-eye discoloration (without the raccoon effect). Used with foundation, concealer can also change or refine any complexion.

Old-school concealers are still a part of every person’s makeup kit. They tend to be cream or opaque-liquid formulas and come in a variety of forms from pots, wands, and sticks. Traditionally, concealers were dense in design and would feel a bit like your grandma’s makeup, or the kind of product favored by rich ladies in Palm Springs.

So I am not a fan of traditional concealers. When not applied correctly, they look cakey and heavy. They also tend to be yellow in tone, which gives you limited color-correction. That said, a traditional concealer can be useful for its density and opaque pigment. When you need true camouflage or heavy coverage, it generally does the trick. Especially after a night of let’s say “partying too much!”

Yet in place of traditional concealers, I prefer the newer, more lightweight products on the market these days. The sheerness of these newer concealers allows you to combine them with other formulas and foundation so that the skin looks flawless both in photos and in person. And today’s concealers aren’t just limited to yellow they come in a wider range of undertones like peach, coral, or orange. The trick with color correction is to choose a concealer with a base which has an undertone opposite of the discoloration you’re trying to cover up. For example, to disguise blue-toned under-eye circles, try a concealer with a peach or coral undertone. 

Finally, I recommend getting a concealer palette, so that you can play with shades freely and creatively. Or create your own customized palette of cream concealers from many ranges.

Carrying my concealers in palettes means I always have the perfect shade with me. In my go-to, I usually keep a peach tone, along with apricot, deep orange, bright orange, plus a yellow and a pink or red and all in a light, medium, and dark shade. Of course, not all skin tones work with yellows and pinks. For darker skin, sometimes a bright orange and a deep orange concealer can save you from having to use a large amount of foundation.

Here’s some more time-tested advice. So you can now conceal with confidence!

To get the perfect highlight, choose a concealer one or two shades lighter than the complexion. To contour with perfect depth and dimension, choose a concealer one or two shades darker than the complexion.

For under-eye shadows and bruises, use a soft, creamy formula that stays put. It’s important to find something that does not dry out or settle into creases and separate. Farmasi carries a wonderful line of concealers that are perfect!

For under-eye bags or discoloration and puffiness, you should use a product that also has color-correction properties. My personal favorites are creams in peach or coral for light blue under-eye discoloration and orange for darker and deeper skin tones. The trick with under-eye concealer? Choose one that is one or two shades lighter if you need a bit of lift. Match the complexion completely if you want a smooth, even skin tone all over. And for puffiness under the eye, go with something one or two shades darker.

For spot concealer over blemishes or broken capillaries, use a concealer that can be applied in sheer strokes and built up in layers for more coverage. A formula with a satin finish will also look more like real skin.

For scars and cuts, it is important to remember that concealer and makeup do not hide texture. But you can trick the eye by using darker shades to recess or deepen a protrusion or a lighter color to pull something forward. Simple tricks can draw attention away from what you don’t want others to see.

Lighter concealer shades are ideal for making lips look larger and opening up small areas. Try a concealer one shade lighter around the lip line to make lips look kissable and pouty all while achieving the perfect size and shape.

So now you know what concealers work for what and what to do to fix something, but do you all think?

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